Day 17 – Saturday 10th June – Kootenay Plains Campground to Banff

This morning we retrace our route back to Saskatchewan Crossing and once again pick up the Icefield Parkway, destination Banff.

The weather at first is dry and bright, to be expected from what we were told last night about local climate and weather patterns; however, once we are back on the Parkway the weather changes and we have a light drizzle from low clouds which obscure all the (magnificent) views from the road.

Our first stop comes upon us a bit earlier than we’d expected and we almost drove by, but managed to pull off the road and park in the small car park.  This is another waterfall and gorge, but gets little publicity and we thought might not be quite as well visited as some we have seen.  So it’s off down the trail to Mistaya Canyon.

The walk is about three hundred metres downhill and we arrive in steady drizzle at a bridge over the canyon itself.  There are a small number of other visitors who have walked out onto the rocks at the edge of the gorge with water once again pouring over the edge and into a narrow swirl of water through the gorge below us.  With few barriers here the whole spectacle is a great deal more natural than other waterfalls and gorges we have visited.

As we climb back up out of the valley we notice that the earlier drizzle has a number of snow flakes and has become noticeably sleety.

By the time we are back in the RV it is definitely snowing and vehicles approaching us from the higher mountains to the south of us have noticeable amounts on bonnets and roofs.  We are climbing steadily now through falling and settling snow towards Bow Pass at over 6,000 feet where we plan to leave the main road to visit Peyto Lake.

On arrival we find lots of the others on the tour are already parked and so we join them, put on warm clothing and then waterproofs and head off to see the Lake!  Mmmm!  The snow is falling and accumulating in significant amounts so we follow the side road rather than taking the trail.  By the time we reach the path down to the Lake viewpoint it is impossible to see anything other than low cloud and snow!  Lots of it!

We opt for a walk on a nature trail and set off into what feels like Narnia rather than Canada in the Summer.  In places the snow is between four and six inches deep, and we feel we have changed seasons from June to January!  It is very picturesque but not really what we had expected.

Back at the van we continue, intending to have lunch and a walk at Bow Lake.  The snow stops as we descend but continues as a fine drizzle.  This is so frustrating because we know, just out of sight in the low cloud, there are the most spectacular mountain views.

We have identified a walk at Bow Lake but after several attempts to start on the trail and finding the initial route is under water, we spend a little longer taking in the cloud covered but still somehow majestic view.  The lake itself can only have been just above freezing point as there is ice formed around the shoreline in several places and further out the surface looks to be ice covered with a dusting of snow.

To our utter amazement three young people emerge from a car, run across the stony “beach” and hurl themselves screaming into the water, only to emerge very rapidly moments later to run back to warm towels and hot drinks at their car!

From here it is on towards Lake Lousie, and beyond that Banff with only a minor detour to the lower gondola station at the Sunshine Ski Area which had been a favourite fifteen or so years ago!

The campground at Banff is high on Tunnel Mountain and as the evening progressed the low cloud cleared and we see that we are surrounded by mountains.

Tonight we decide to eat out and Simon books us a table at “Bumpers”.  It has moved physically since our last visit fifteen years ago, however they still boast the finest beef dishes and steaks.  The quality of food is as good as we remember and the quality of insult (jokingly expressed) towards anyone brave or foolhardy enough to admit to being a vegetarian also much the same!