British Columbia and the Canadian Rockies

We have heard that Lake Louise is special and that Moraine Lake a little beyond there is also worth a visit.   We decide to try and make an early start and we are glad we did because the parking lot at Moraine Lake was already pretty full and the number of RV spaces already reduced by the overflow of cars.   We manage to squeeze into the final parking space.   It is really busy and there are very many cars, busses and RVs all spilling visitors out onto the end of the lake, which is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. As is so often the case just a short walk and we leave the crowds behind us as we take the trail all along the water’s edge to the far end where for a while at least there are just the two of us to appreciate this scenic marvel! The lake itself is misnamed as, although glacial it has been formed not by terminal moraine deposits but instead by a landslide cutting across the valley and holding the glacial and snow melt water back. ...

After the snow of the previous day we wake to blue skies and sunshine and decide to take the gondola to the summit of Sulpher Mountain.   This is another hot spot on the Canadian Rockies tourist route and there are many coaches filled with visitors on the Brewster money making trail! We book our timed tickets and have a coffee before the ascent, which takes only minutes and once at the top appreciate what makes this a pretty special place to visit.  The views in all directions are fabulous and once again we are blessed with very clear visibility.  We walk the extra part and visit the old meteorological and science study station from which there are more stunning views.  Here we also find Denise and John, Chris and Hilary all enjoying the last few days of the tour. Following the descent we grab our swimming costumes and head for the Banff Upper Hot Springs which are nearby.   For a reasonable charge we can hire a towel, use the facilities and...

This morning we retrace our route back to Saskatchewan Crossing and once again pick up the Icefield Parkway, destination Banff. The weather at first is dry and bright, to be expected from what we were told last night about local climate and weather patterns; however, once we are back on the Parkway the weather changes and we have a light drizzle from low clouds which obscure all the (magnificent) views from the road. Our first stop comes upon us a bit earlier than we’d expected and we almost drove by, but managed to pull off the road and park in the small car park.   This is another waterfall and gorge, but gets little publicity and we thought might not be quite as well visited as some we have seen.   So it’s off down the trail to Mistaya Canyon. The walk is about three hundred metres downhill and we arrive in steady drizzle at a bridge over the canyon itself.  There are a small number of other visitors who have walked out onto the rocks at the edge of the go...

Today’s drive is on the famous Icefields Parkway and is one of the great drives of the world.   This is Highway 93 and also a section of the Trans-Canada Highway and passes through some of the most outstanding and spectacular scenery we have seen so far. We resolve to make an early start and skip breakfast planning to have it on the road.   Our first stop is at the Athabasca Falls and they do not disappoint.   Here the wide Athabasca River plunges over a series of waterfalls and is forced into a narrow gorge before being released from its confines to regain its full width as the gorge opens out once more.   The sheer power of the water being forced through this narrow space is hard to imagine and today the Alberta Gorge Rescue team is undertaking a training exercise to prepare for some future rescue.   The lead safety guy comes form Australia and travels the world for six months every year training mountain rescue and similar teams in “difficult” rescues. ...

From the summit of Mount Whistler we had seen a group of lakes on the edge of town and the local trail guide suggested walks in that area so accompanied once again by Simon and Helen we set off first for Patricia Lake where the reflections were just stunning.   We stopped there until the beauty was broken by a couple in canoes breaking the reflected images in the water and set off for our next lake, Pyramid Lake. Here we abandoned the RV and took the trail to Pyramid Overlook.  The walk is a combination of 2b, 2h and 2i but is worth the effort when you reach the viewpoint above Pyramid Lake.  We are making our usual raucous noise to deter inquisitive bears, having seen evidence on the path, when we come across Chris and Hilary who are enjoying the view, along with the solitude and the peace and quiet!  Soon ruined that! After the return walk following a different route, we cross the bridge and onto Pyramid Island where once again we take in the impres...

Today Hilary and Chris have organized a boat trip for us on Lake Maligne, not as part of the tour but something a lot of us wanted to do.   On the drive to the lake there is an opportunity to take a walk on the Maligne Canyon Trail, so we take advice and park at the Fifth Bridge and walk from there.   This is another stunningly beautiful walk within the narrow limestone gorge. The path goes alongside and crosses at a number of bridges, the cascading river. This plunges through the contorted shapes of the canyon sides and over many waterfalls.   The water itself has come from Medicine Lake through a complex series of underground passageways.  In spite of the fact there is no river issuing from the lake itself, the level of water in it is seasonal and dependent on the flow through the network of tunnels and into Maligne Canyon. The walk up the canyon ends at First Bridge where there is a large car park and tea rooms.   Unsurprisingly the last two bridges have...

This is a spacious campground amongst the trees and although there must be hundreds of sites it doesn’t seem overcrowded.   For breakfast I am joined by a number of inquisitive gophers.   Their heads pop up and they occasionally stand on their hind legs to observe the scene.   They are not tame but clearly very used to people as this is a shared space between humans and wildlife.   Also at breakfast we see red squirrels and later in the day elk come wandering past. It is another glorious day and we take just one RV the short distance to the “tramway” base station.    This is not a skiing mountain, the Jasper ski area is further out, but instead the gondola operates for the summer season only.    The “flight” (yes that is what they call it) whisks us quickly to the upper station where we stand awhile and admire the views in all directions.    It is so clear the gondola operator tells us that it is the clearest view of Mount Robson, whi...

The day starts with the short drive to the parking lot for the Kinney trail below the imposing sight of Mount Robson.   I had already picked this walk out as one with potential and it was also recommended by Chris and Hilary.   It was the perfect day, without a cloud in the sky, as we set off from the RV parking.   The trail follows the Robson River through mostly evergreen trees with a few open clearings and we are glad of the shade and the sound of the river is a constant companion as it tumbles along from its source at Kinney Lake.   There are butterflies flitting ahead of us leading us on up the gentle slope, with occasional glimpses of Mount Robson clear of cloud just ahead.    We reach the bridge which crosses the river and round the next bend the lake in its magnificent setting is revealed in all its glory!   The lake is a pristine turquoise blue, and fills the glacial valley with mountains soaring above it on three sides.   Along with oth...

This is one of the longest drives and first we have to return to Clearwater and pick up the Yellowhead Highway.   Once again we are following the North Thompson River – the Mighty North Thompson.   The river is full with late spring melt water and is fast flowing.   At Blue River there is an option to call in for a River Safari and/or a jeep trail for some wildlife spotting.   We just had a coffee and watched the boats departing and returning.   Some of the tour group did take the trips and had mixed experiences with some significant bear spottings, and some with nothing! Then it was back on the road which continues to follow the course of the river, but which is increasingly closer to the snow capped mountains and is generally climbing steadily.   At Tete Jaune Cache we turn onto the 16 and stop briefly at Rearguard Falls, the highest point reached on the Thompson by migrating salmon.   Now in the mountains we suddenly round a bend...

We have agreed with Helen and Simon a day tour in the Park, with the intention of visiting as many of the sights as possible.   We continue up the Clearwater Valley Road, which starts with a tarmac surface and becomes a dirt road, stopping for a walk at Ray’s Farm, an abandoned farmstead with crumbling farm buildings and overgrown paddocks. The insects are biting with a vengeance here so we spray a further layer of repellent.  We walk the loop to Alice Lake and back observing fresh bear scat (poo) and elk droppings but, as recommended, we are making lots of noise so it is unlikely that we would see any wildlife.  The walk includes a small detour to view the mineral spring, bubbling hot sulpherous water from deep underground. A brief stop to admire the falls at Bailey’s Chute and then on to Clearwater Lake.   We had hoped to do a walk here but were warned that the path was very wet and many trees were down following the strong winds of t...

Before we depart this morning we are treated to a guided visit to a reconstructed first nation summer encampment, which was very interesting; and then continued with a ride on a stagecoach to the original Hat Creek Roadhouse an historic monument from the days of the Gold Rush. This was a great start to the day and it was hard to tear ourselves away from this atmospheric place, though most of those who had failed to apply insect repellent this morning took away some nasty mosquito bites.  Before we set off it was coffee and warm, fresh baked blueberry muffins, though the muffins themselves were closer to what we would call a blueberry scone. The drive from here to our next destination was through a dry and arid landscape, though after a while the route closely follows the Thompson River which seems to gather water and grow in size as we follow it towards Kamloops Lake and then again north of the town towards Clearwater.  Here we leave the main road and head into Well...

There is some misunderstanding about the distance of travel today, but the drive itself is pretty spectacular and there is much to enjoy in the scenery as we climb once more into the mountains.   Our first stop is at the stunning Nairn Falls.   Several others have opted to make a stop here and we all enjoy watching and marveling at the power of the water as it hurtles over the edge and plunges into the gorge below. It is during the drive today that the first truly wild bears are spotted.   These are black bears, confusingly called because they can be any brown/black shade from quite a light ginger brown to really dark coal black.   It is however their generally smaller size which marks them out and the lack of the tell-tale back “hump” of the larger brown bear or grizzly.   Avoiding a “bear jam” and risky stop on a narrow twisty road ours is just a momentary glimpse. On arrival at Hat Creek ranch we are parked in a wagon train circle around a large fi...

It is overcast but dry and although we are tempted to take the gondola trip up Blackcomb we suspect that there will be no spectacular views from the top and opt instead for an exploration on foot of the lower level walks in the area.   Whistler has very many well marked paths and trails to ride or walk and we opt to search out the Lost Lake.   It is mostly pretty straight forward and in the main well marked.   Part of it is a mountain bike trail but this can be avoided by opting for the footpath/no biking option.   We reach the Lost lake and protected by insect repellent we walk around its perimeter.   This includes watching a man fishing and catching brown trout. At the picnic area we enjoy our own lunch and then head into Whistler to visit the Olympic Village.  The key pathway routes are helpfully marked with a yellow line and this does get us close enough to the village centre to abandon the trail and head into the heart of the settlement with its...

We start today’s journey in the rain and consider the options suggested by Chris and Hilary for this part of the drive.  We either stop at Duncan to view totem poles or we continue to the town of Chemainus with its outdoor gallery of giant murals.  Having seen quite a number of totems, both at towns on the cruise and in Vancouver, we opt for the giant murals and are stunned by both the sheer number and quality of them.  No large wall space is spared and we talk with the lady in the Information Centre who tells us that they are still being added to with new murals painted very year.  Figures are life size or bigger and the detail is remarkable. Having purchase a leaflet guide we decide to visit as many as we can and are rewarded by giant pictures of old Chemainus, historic representations of wood yards, ships, wildlife and people.  There are nearly 50 to see and in spite of the rain we really enjoy our morning here. The...

Research ahead of the trip has indicated that we can easily make the short drive to visit the Butchart Gardens.   These gardens are world famous, and as we soon discover, rightly so.   I appear to have passed my cough to a number of others, or perhaps they also picked it up independently on the cruise, and Simon has succumbed.   So it is just Mary, Helen and I who drive across the peninsular to the gardens. They really are impressive.   The concept is very simple, take a worked out limestone quarry, land which housed a Portland Cement works and woodland down to the creek side and turn it into a series of stunning gardens.   Oh yes and use an extraordinary amount of money in the process!   We head first for the sunken garden.   There is little trace of its industrial past as the former quarry is now filled with trees, shrubs and flowers, and also has the extraordinary Ross Fountain.  The only clue to its industrial past is the remaining ...

Today the tour includes a whale watching trip and once again I decline to join the group, keeping my cough to myself!   Mary goes along and enjoys the experience but there are no whales to be seen!   Instead, american bald eagles, fur seals and sea lions are on offer.   Perhaps this trip ought to be billed as a “nature watching trip” as many are disappointed (short changed even) that they didn’t see any whales!  These are wild creatures and the clue is in the name. In the evening I am feeling a little better so we take a walk out of the campground and onto the shoreline.   There are local first nation children playing on the rocks and beach and an extended family are preparing a barbecue fire.   All along the shore there are large timbers washed up by the highest tides and we sit awhile to watch herons fishing in the shallows as the sun sinks in the sky.   It is very peaceful and we feel very relaxed. Then it is back to the ...